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MB QUART STAGE ONE SPEAKERS
Completed 3/18/2006

DESCRIPTION
Install the Stage One audio upgrade system. There are three flavors of the Stage One kit: CDT (Natural), MB Quart (Detailed and Brighter), or Rainbow (Rich and Smooth). The MBs are $30 more, the Rainbows are $60. The kit comes normally with 8 speakers: midbass and tweeter for the front doors, tweeter for rear doors, and midbasses for the rear parcel shelf. There is a new option to also upgrade the midranges in the front, DO IT for the $79. I chose the MB Quarts with midrange upgrade.

Now, I vowed not to mess with the stereo since most upgrades add weight to the car and it goes against my goals. This option adds little to no weight and really does make a noticable difference without changing amps, head unit, or added subs and boxes.

PARTS NEEDED
1 - STAGE ONE AUDIO UPGRADE
     (BAVARIAN SOUNDWERKS $399.99 part# BSW.STG1.E46.S)

TOOLS NEEDED
8mm Socket and Wrench
Phillips-head Screwdriver
T20 Driver
Trim Removal Tool/Small Screwdriver
Wire Crimpers w/ cutter and stripper
Hot Glue/Similiar Adhesive
Dremel with Grinding Tip (optional)

INSTALLATION
The biggest recommendation here is to go slow and be careful. Taking your time will save you hassle and damage. Let's go!

1. This is what came in the kit, the MB Quart Discus DSF213 for the front and DSF216 for the rear (Photo A).

2. Starting with the driver's door, remove the trim piece by lifting the rear away from the door. It will pop off. (Photo B).

3. We need to remove five (5) Torx T20 screws to get the panel off. Two being the trim and three hidden (Photo C - Red Circles).

4. Remove the top two (2) T20 screws (Photo D).

5. Using a small trim tool (or tiny screwdriver), carefully lift up on each end of the electric mirrors switch (Photo E).

6. Disconnect the electrical harness and remove the switch (Photo F).

7. Behind the switch hole, there is a T20 screw, remove it (Photo G).

8. Under the armrest are two plastic caps, they snap off by pulling down. Behind is the last two T20s. Remove them (Photo H).

9. Use the trim tool to carefully pull the lower part of the panel away from the door. Once you pop one rivet, use your hands to release the rest around the perimeter of the door (Photo I).

10. The top of the door is also clipped in place and can be released by pulling straight towards you away from the door.

11. Once the door panel is free, pull the white handle connector away from the panel, it is easy to disconnect (Photo J).

12. The wiring harness is clipped to the door panel, lightly pull the connectors off the door (Photo K).

13. Disconnect the plugs from the midbass and midrange (Photo L) and the panel is free (Photo M).

14. I started on the tweeters and they are tricky. There are two plastic rivets inside the door jamb (Photo N - At my fingertips).

15. Remove them and very, very carfully pull away from the door. It is one long piece that wraps the whole door and you only need to remove enough to reveal the tweeter. I had a bit of trouble getting it away from the actual window frame due to some extra glue from the factory (Photo O).

16. Once the trim is free, remove the foam insulation piece and it exposes the two T35 Torx bolts holding the mirror on. You only need to loosen the top one a bit to slide the tweeter up and out (Photo P).

17. The new DSF213 tweeter comes attached to a metal strap. I removed this strap to make alignement easier (Photo Q).

18. Mount the strap to the upper bolt for the mirror. Replace the foam and see which hole in the strap lines up perfectly (Photo R).

19. I marked it with a pen and then remounted the new tweeter at that hole (Photo S).

20. The HK tweeters are angled to produce better sound in the cabin, I twisted the new MB tweeters to match that angle (Photo T).

21. When I went to replace the foam insulation, it presses the tweeter out of alignment due to the new strap. I used my pocket knife to slice a slot in the foam (Photo U).

21. Now the foam slides right over the strap and also keeps it from vibrating (Photo V).

22. Cut the wires to the factory tweeter as close the end plug as possible and strip them (Photo W).

23. Attach the red to red and black to black and crimp the new tweeter wires together (Photo X).

24. You are done here, reattach the trim, check the rubber weatherstripping on the door frame to make sure it is not pinched and replace the plastic trim rivets in the front of the door.

25. On to the midbass. Remove the foam insulation (Photo Y).

26. Remove the three (3) Phillip-head screws hold the speaker in place (Photo Z - Red Circles).

27. Here is the factory HK and new MB midbass side by side (Photo AA).

28. Now here is where I had some serious trouble. I mounted the MB midbass using the supplied screws and it the new speaker looked a lot deeper than the factory one. I test fit the door panel and sure enough, it simply doesn't fit. I had to dremel the doors down (Photo AB).

29. After the Dremel work, the speaker sits flush now (Photo AC). It turns out that the midbasses I got were incorrectly mounted to the adapter plate from BSW (Photo AD). The plastic ring should be BEHIND the speaker face. If you get it this way, remove the ring and put it behind. The Dremel work may not have been necessary after all.

30. Cut the factory plug off the wires to the midbass and crimp them to the new speaker. The brown stripe on factory wiring is NEGATIVE (-) so connect it to the negative wire off the MB Quart. My speaker had no negative/positve markings, so I used the wire with the flat edge. In my previous years of stereo install, this was commonly known as the negative wire (Photo AE).

31. The midbass is done. If you bought the recommended midrange upgrade, twist the lock ring off (Photo AF) and push the speaker housing through the door panel (Photo AG).

32. To remove the midrange from the housing, press the latching clips in and pull the large tab out a bit (Photo AH).

33. The midrange will pull out the back (Photo AI).

34. Take the new BSW mids and look around the edge of the speaker for a notch (Photo AJ).

35. This notch will slide over the tab on the inside of the midrange housing you removed. Insert the speaker into the housing and lock it behind the large tabs. If it is loose, use some hot glue to lock it down (Photo AK).

36. Replace the midrange housing and lock it back down with the ring. Look inside to get the correct pos/neg terminals (Photo AL).

37. Cut the plug of the midrange harness and connect the wiring for the new midrange. There was no brown stripe for negative, so I used the one with a stripe (Photo AM).

38. At this point we can now replace the door panel. I make note here to make sure you have all the felt washers on the plastic rivets. Sometimes they stick to the door (Photo AN). Connect the door handle cable, press the top clips into place, and then follow with snapping the rivets around the edge.

39. Repeat these steps on the other front door.

40. Moving to the rear doors, the panel removal steps are the same.

41. Twist the lock ring off and remove the factory tweeter. Disconnect the wiring harness. You will need to use a small screwdriver to pull the plastic ring off the front of the speaker (Photo AO).

42. Apply some hot glue to the DSF216 tweeter (Photo AP) and attach it into place in the factory ring (Photo AQ).

43. Cut off the factory harness plug and again using the brown stripe as NEGATIVE, crimp the supplied connectors on to connect the speaker.

44. Replace the speaker housing, lock it into place, and replace the door panel.

45. Repeat on the other rear door.

46. The last step is the rear deck speakers. Pull the headrests straight up to make some room.

47. Pull the speaker covers off by lifting the rear up and out (Photo AR). Be VERY careful. The aluminum HK trim can break off easily.

48. Using a 8mm socket, remove the three (3) bolts holding the speaker in place (Photo AS).

49. Remove the factory speaker and disconnect the harness. Cut the plug off, remember brown is negative (Photo AT).

50. Crimp the new speakers in place and secure them using the factory bolts and the supplied washers. In this picture, it is the WRONG screws, but it does show the washers in place (Photo AU).

51. Replace the covers and you're done!

 

Photo A


Photo B


Photo C


Photo D


Photo E


Photo F


Photo G


Photo H


Photo I


Photo J


Photo K


Photo L


Photo M


Photo N


Photo O


Photo P


Photo Q


Photo R


Photo S


Photo T


Photo U


Photo V


Photo W


Photo X


Photo Y


Photo Z


Photo AA


Photo AB


Photo AC


Photo AD


Photo AE


Photo AF


Photo AG


Photo AH


Photo AI


Photo AJ


Photo AK


Photo AL


Photo AM


Photo AN


Photo AO


Photo AP


Photo AQ


Photo AR


Photo AS


Photo AT


Photo AU

 REVIEW

First off, once everything was in and working good, the upgrade sounds FANTASTIC. It is a bit louder, but MUCH cleaner. I used to be about how loud could I get my stereos, shaking windows and waking up the neighbors. Now, I want quality over quantity and these fit the bill without adding weight. The instructions could have been a little cleaner and the BSW website said they were open 10-7 every day and a call on Saturday for help proved that wrong (they are open M-F btw).

There was some buzzing and vibrations and I downloaded a tone generator MP3 and put it on CD. It generates 2 second tones from 20Hz to 20kHz and will help you nail down and fix rattles, buzzes, and loose components. DOWNLOAD the test MP3 if you'd like. It helped me immensely and it may help you.

Overall, I really enjoy the upgrade and it fills the job of performing better than stock while not increasing curb weight.


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