Stories, how-to, and reviews from my personal tuner shop... my garage.

My collection of media including photos, audio, and video.

Specs, history, pros/cons, and stories about my own 330i.

BMW places on the Internet that I find useful.

Completed 11/14/2001

Install 4-point safety harnesses

1 - Schroth RallyE 4 Harness (Driver Side)
     (HMS MOTORSPORT $149.95)
1 - Schroth RallyE 4 Harness (Passenger Side)
     (HMS MOTORSPORT $149.95)
2 - Schroth 2" Shoulder Pad Set (optional)
     (HMS MOTORSPORT $29.95 each)
2 - Schroth 2" Grip Set (optional)
     (HMS MOTORSPORT $9.90 each)

16mm Deep Socket & Ratchet
T47 Torx Socket/Tool
Vise or Pliers
Flat Head Screwdriver (possibly)

I have never enjoyed a seat belt crossing my chest while driving. While most of my friends would rather not wear them, I have an IQ higher than 40 and wear them every time. I chose to install 4-point harnesses for their comfort and better safety factor under hard driving and/or track use. Also, I can still use my factory belts in all 5 seat locations for short trips.

1. Here is everything I started with (Photo A). It is a good idea to only work on one set at a time, since the left and right sides are NOT interchangable. I started with the left side first.

2. Jump in the back seat. Remove the two plastic tiedown covers by pulling them out (Photo B).

3. Remove the back seat lower cushion by simply pulling up and out to expose the rear seat lap belt anchors (Photo C).

4. Using the T47 Torx, remove the lap belt anchor bolts (Photos D & E). You can get to them without removing the seat back, just wedge the Torx in there.

5. This part is hard to put into text. In order for the tailstrap section to bolt in nice, you will need to bend the anchors. Up to a 90 degree bend is allowed in the anchors per SCHROTH, but excessive bending is not recommended. Here is what I ended up with after going back and forth between my vise and the car numerous times (Photo F).

6. Place the new harness anchors on the bolt first, then the factory anchors and tighten the bolt back into place (Photo G). Tighten to 35 ft-lbs.

7. When you have both left and right tailstraps installed, replace the back seat and feed the straps and anchors through. Replace the tiedown covers and you will look like this (Photo H).

8. On to the front seat! The only way to get to the seat belt anchors is to remove the seat. Don't worry, it is easier than it sounds. Start by moving the seat all the way forward and raise the height all the way up.

9. Behind the seat, use the 16mm socket/wrench to remove the two rear seat bolts (Photo I).

10. Move the seat all the way back, and find the two 16mm nuts in front (Photo J). Pop the caps off and remove them.

11. Now, under the seat is an airbag system sensor. To the inboard side of the yellow plug, there is a black plastic locking sleeve. Slide the sleeve to the center of the car and the plug will pop out. You may need the screwdriver here to help out. In the photo, I have already popped the plug out (Photo K).

12. The seat is free to move a bit now. I found it easiest to just tip it forward since you need to get at the rear of the seat itself (Photo L).

13. The factory outboard seat belt anchors to the seat and moves with the seat. Remove the plastic cover and then remove the 16mm bolt (Photo M).

14. I took the plastic cover and cut the plastic away to make room for the harness anchor. Even a semi-sharp knife will cut through this soft plastic (Photos N & O). You don't have to do this cutting if you are afraid to modify your car in that way. I am sure you can bend the harness anchor to fit around the cover or just remove the cover until you decide to remove the harnesses.

15. Put the harness lapbelt anchor on the bolt first, then the factory anchor and tighten the bolt down aligning the factory anchor in it's notch.

16. Replace the cover (Photo P).

17. On the inboard side, the factory belt anchor is attached to the seat retractor firing mechanism. Remove the T47 Torx bolt and slide the harness anchor in between the factory anchor and the seat frame and replace the bolt. PAY ATTENTION to the small tab that aligns the firing mechanism (Photo Q - red circle) when tightening the bolt back into position. Tighten to 35 ft-lbs.

18. Realign the seat back on the floor and prepare to tighten it down.

19. Start by loosely putting the front nuts on and then align and tighten the rear bolts. Once lined up, go back and tighten the front nuts to secure the seat back into place on the floorpan. Tighten to 33 ft-lbs.

19. Reattach the airbag system sensor underneath the seat.

20. Feed the front harness up between the headrest posts and attach it to the tailstrap. You may need to adjust the various straps to make it reach (Photo R).

21. Repeat the steps for the other harness if you are installing them on both seats.

Stand back and enjoy your work (Photo S)!

Photo A

Photo B

Photo C

Photo D

Photo E

Photo F

Photo G

Photo H

Photo I

Photo J

Photo K

Photo L

Photo M

Photo N

Photo O

Photo P

Photo Q

Photo R

Photo S

I spent about 10 minutes getting the belt adjusted to my body, but once you are in, you are PLANTED! Don't even try to reach for the glovebox, you'll never make it. The shoulder pads are worth every penny, get them. The harness grips are nice, but not really necessary after you strap in. I also like the fact that when you are just using the factory belt, you can either sit on the harness or throw it around to the back of the seat (also good for bad parking locations where racing harnesses might imply a really fast car and a theft target).

The rear tailstraps each have a buckle that can be quickly disconnected to allow the back seat to be used.

All in all, I love them! Get yourself a pair and see what I mean. They are a perfect compliment to the sport seats when throwing the car around really good.

  © MarvelPhx