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Completed 10/26/2002


Remove engine fuel rail cover and interior air supply box located over rear engine end.

23. The air box contains the microfilter for the climate control system. Untwist the 3 knobs a half-turn (Photo V - Red Circles) and lift the filter cover off. Remove the air filter element as well.

24. The front of the air box has a wiring harness channel that can be uncovered by slipping a screwdriver under the 4 clips and lifting off (Photo V - Yellow Circles). Pull the battery cable and wiring loom out of the channel.

25. Use a T25 Torx driver to remove the 4 bolts from the rear of the airbox (Photo W) and lift up to remove the airbox.

26. The fuel rail cover is held in place by (2) 10mm bolts. Use a small screwdriver to remove the caps (Photo W - Red Circles), remove the bolts and lift the cover off.

Unbolt engine vacuum rail and unplug oil breather hose, cut according to picture.

27. Use a T20 Torx driver to remove the 4 screws from the vacuum rail (Photo X).

28. Use a large screwdriver to pry the vacuum rail up and out of the intake manifold. It just pops out straight up (Photo Y).

29. Unplug the breather hose by squeezing it on the ridged collar. Then, cut the lower hose off as close as possible to the plug (Photo Z).

Pull remaining piece of oil breather hose out under intake manifold and extend using supplied hose.

30. Pull the hose you just cut out from under the intake manifold. Be careful not to pull on this hose too hard as it comes off from the fitting under the manifold quite easily. I found that keeping clock-wise torque on the hose keeps it attached. Getting it back on if it comes off is a small challenge in itself.

31. Attach the ESS-supplied hose extension onto the hose and route it towards the supercharger's future location (Photo AA).

NOTE: For me, this hose was simply not long enough when it came to connecting it to the supercharger intake. I ended up buying about (9) nine inches of 5/8" heater hose and using that instead. You may have better luck than I.

Exchange injectors with new, larger ones supplied in kit. Install fuel rail using 4x13mm distance spacers and longer bolts.

PAY ATTENTION HERE: These next few steps will inevitably spill gasoline. A spark is all it takes, so be extremely careful. I would rather not hear about how fast a car is from someone with no eyebrows.

32. Go to the back of the car and remove the gas tank fill cap.

33. Unscrew the schrader valve cap from the fuel rail (Photo BB).

34. Use a tire fill adapter to put about 45psi of compressed air into the valve. This will force the pressurized fuel back towards the fuel tank. It only takes a few short bursts of air to do this. If you hear bubbles in the tank, that's plenty. It is advisable to have a shop towel around the valve as it might spray a small amount of gasoline when you remove the air supply (Photo CC).

35. Use a small screwdriver to unsnap the wiring harness clips on each of the six injectors (Photo DD).

36. That same screwdriver can be used to unclip each injector from the fuel rail (Photo EE).

37. Use a 10mm socket to remove the 4 bolts holding down the fuel rail, remove the two wiring harness connectors from the clips on the top of the rail, and lift the rail off the injectors. This is likely to spill some gasoline, so have towels ready (Photo FF - New injectors already installed). The rail is connected at the rear of the engine, so only lift it high enough to clear the injectors.

38. The injectors themselves pull straight up and out. Replace each one with an ESS-supplied "red-top" injector. You can see the size difference in Photo GG. I am pretty sure the new 36# injectors are from a Porsche Twin-Turbo. If you chose, you can coat each injector's o-rings with a thin coat of fresh engine oil to make a good seal.

39. Press the rail back onto the new injectors, reattach the retaining clips and wiring harness to each injector. Use the 4x13mm spacers supplied in the kit under the fuel rail brackets and secure the rail down with ESS's longer bolts. These bolts use a 5mm Allen wrench (Photo HH).

Reinstall vacuum rail and install supplied ESS vacuum divider. Route rear vacuum hose around back of engine and use later for bypass valve located in discharge tube.

40. Replace the existing vacuum rail hose with the ESS-provided one. It should snap into fittings at both ends of the vacuum rail. Run the long vacuum line under the cables from the airbox and around the back of the engine to the supercharger's future location. (You can see the installed part in Photo CC).

NOTE: If you plan on running a boost gauge, the small plugged end of this vacuum diverter is a good place to tap in.

Install air temperature sensor in interior air supply box.

41. Use a 3/16" drill bit to drill a hole in the airbox (Use Photo II for location).

42. Disconnect the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) wiring harness plug and cut off about 3" from the engine. It's located right in the center of the vacuum rail (Photo JJ).

43. Trim the wires and solder the plug onto the ESS-supplied 2-wire extension (not the 3-wire, that one is for the MAF sensor later). The wire colors should match. I chose to also shrink wrap the connection (Photo KK). You could just twist and electrical tape these connections, but I don't recommend it.

44. Connect the new supplied intake air temperature sensor to the plug and feed the wire down through the hole in the airbox. Attach the sensor to the airbox. I chose to make some slots in the airbox and run a ziptie around the sensor to hold it in place (Photo LL). You can see the underside of the airbox and ziptie in Photo LL2.

Reinstall interior air supply box. Connect air temp. sensor and reinstall filter.

45. Reinstall the airbox with the 4 x T25 Torx bolts and replace filter and cover. Reattach the wires to the front of the airbox.

46. Bring the IAT sensor wire underneath the airbox and forward and solder to the previous sensor location (Photo MM).

Turn ignition to level 2 and check for fuel leaks.

47. If you didnt' remove your DME in Steps 1-3, you can do this fuel leak test. Have someone turn the ignition to position 2 (ON), but do not turn the engine over. This will activate the fuel pump and pressurize the fuel rail. Look for any fuel leaks around the injectors. I didn't have any, but if you do, turn off the ignition and make sure everything is tightened down.

If OK, turn off ignition and reinstall fuel rail cover.

No fuel leaks? Good! You can bolt the fuel rail cover back down (it will sit a bit higher off the engine due to the taller injectors, but you won't notice when you are all done.

Install the short supercharger support bracket. Use factory bolt. Do not tighten until final alignment.

48. This J-shaped bracket bolts to the oil filter housing using the existing 13mm bolt (Photo NN). Install it with the long end of the bracket facing forward (Photo OO). Do not tighten until the supercharger bracket is in place.

Remove both engine belts.

49. Remove both engine belts by pressing down on the tensioner pulleys. The air conditioning belt comes off easy. The accessory (alternator, water pump, power steering) belt is more difficult. Photo PP highlights the idler pulley, the *tensioner* is the smaller one right below. You will not reuse the factory accessory belt.

Remove alternator attachment bolts (2x).

50. Use a 16mm socket to remove both alternator bolts. The upper bolt is part of the idler pulley assembly (Photo PP - Cap has been removed for clarity, it just snaps off). The lower bolt is easy to find (Photo QQ). Both bolts are very long and can be tricky to get out. You will only reuse the lower bolt.



Photo V

Photo W

Photo X

Photo Y

Photo Z

Photo AA

Photo BB

Photo CC

Photo DD

Photo EE

Photo FF

Photo GG

Photo HH

Photo II

Photo JJ

Photo KK

Photo LL

Photo LL2

Photo MM

Photo NN

Photo OO

Photo PP

Photo QQ

  © MarvelPhx