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Completed 4/16/2004

Install the UUC Lightweight Flywheel and UUC Stage 3 Full Ceramic Clutch. Either can be done seperately using this same DIY. This is the 13# full anodized aluminum flywheel from UUC along with their new SPRUNG-HUB ceramic 4-puck clutch disc for the 6-speed transmission. The 5-speed and 6-speed are totally different transmissions and the parts are not interchangable.

1 - UUC Motorwerks 13# Lightweight Flywheel
     (UUC MOTORWERKS Coming Soon part#)
1 - UUC Motorwerks Full Ceramic Clutch & Pressure Plate
     (UUC MOTORWERKS Coming Soon part#)

A vehicle lift
Transmission jacks
16mm, 14mm, 11mm, 10mm Wrenches/Sockets
T25, T35, T50, and T60 Torx sockets
Socket Wrench
Long LONG socket extension (~36")
Loctite (preferably the red type)

The use of a vehicle lift is almost mandatory here. While possible with a floor jack and very tall stands, it is just not simple, nor safe. Raise the vehicle on a lift. I apologize in advance for the lack of detail, we were working very fast to get this installation done and at times the tech got a head of me. I will give as much information as possible.

You can see a studio photo of the clutch and flywheel in Photo SET. Let's begin.

1. Remove the plastic undertray beneath the engine. There are three (3) x Push Rivets and seven (7) x phillips-head capture screws (Photo A is from my 2001 330i, there is one more push rivet (blue circles) and one more screw (red circles) on my 2004 330i).

2. Remove the four (4) x 16mm transmission brace bolts and the two (2) x 16mm bolts on the rubber support and then remove brace (Photo B - Brace removed in photo).

3. Remove the six (6) x 16mm bolts (Photo C) for the metal reinforcment plate and remove the reinforcment plate (Photo D).

4. Remove the exhaust system (refer to my UUC TSE3 DIY for this step).

5. Use a 10mm socket to remove nuts for the heat shield above the driveshaft and remove shield (Photo E).

6. Disconnect the reverse light switch harness located in the passenger rear side of the transmission.

7. Remove the 16mm bolts on the guibo and pull the driveshaft back from the transmission (Photo F - Red Circles). The driveline will have some play in it, this allows the driveline to move and expand. Do not pull the driveline apart.

8. Remove the 13mm nuts on the center driveline bearing, pry it from the body (Photo G), and move the driveine to the side and support it from falling. I used a piece of bailing wire to secure it to the lift.

9. Use a transmission jack to support the weight of the transmission (Photo H).

10. Remove the clip on the base of the shifter lever and disconnect the linkage (Photo I). Save this clip and the washers to reuse.

11. Remove the two (2) bolts from the clutch slave cylinder and remove it from the transmission. You can leave the fluid supply hose connected.

12. Remove the 10mm bolt from the bracket on the passenger side of bell housing (Photo J). This clip holds the reverse light harness.

13. Remove the T35 and T40 Torx bolts from around the transmission bell housing (Photo K). Be ready to support transmission.

14. Depending on the vehicle, you may have to remove the starter or raise the front of the engine to access these Torx bolt. We did both and also used about a 30" socket extension. We used another transmission jack and a piece of 2x4 under the A/C compressor to tilt the engine back a bit. I did *NOT* have to disconnect any other parts or remove anything, including the supercharger intercooler piping, microfilter housing, etc.

15. Pull the transmission straight back and down to remove. Get help with this, it is not incredibly heavy, just awkward.

16. If you are replacing the pilot bearing (Photo L), this is the input shaft it resides on (Photo M), replace it with the new one. The tabs fit on the bumps in front of the black throwout lever (Photo N).

17. This is the factory self-adjusting pressure plate (the evil S.A.C.) (Photo O). Remove the six (6) x 6mm bolts from the pressure plate (Photo P)and remove the pressure plate. The factory sprung-hub clutch disc should come with it.

18. This is the factory dual-mass flywheel (Photo Q). Remove the eight (8) x T50 Torx bolts from the flywheel (Photo R) and remove flywheel. The stock flywheel is very heavy (approximately 26lbs).

19. This is the rear main seal and flywheel mounting face (Photo S). Take notice of the small alignment dowel (Photo T - red circle). The pilot hole is larger and only one hole has the dowel. Align the new lightweight flywheel's larger hole on this dowel and fit into place (Photo U).

20. Loctite NEW flywheel bolts (Photo V), then fasten flywheel in place tight. Tighten in a star pattern same as you would a tire.

21. Using a clutch alignment tool through the new pressure plate and clutch disc, install pressure plate to flywheel (Photo W) and fasten in place with new suppled bolts.

22. Remove alignment tool. Clutch disc should be perfectly centered in pressure plate. This allows easier installation of the transmission.

23. I took this moment to change the fluid in the transmission to Redline D4 ATF (Photo X). It is a high-quality transmission fluid which has proven to reduce lightweight flywheel chatter. Use a 14mm hex wrench to remove the lower drain bolt. Drain fluid. Replace drain and remove 14mm fill bolt. Add fluid and replace fill bolt. Once transmission is installed, crack the install bolt a bit and drain off excess fluid.

24. Installation is the simply the reverse of these steps.

That's it. This is the new clutch and old clutch discs side by side (Photo Y). Both flywheels and clutches require a break-in when replaced. The friction surfaces need time to build up a layer to work effectively. Take about 500 miles of normal driving with LOTS of shifting to get them broken in. No hard launches, shifts, or dragging the clutch during break-in.


Photo SET

Photo A

Photo B

Photo C

Photo D

Photo E

Photo F

Photo G

Photo H

Photo I

Photo J

Photo K

Photo L

Photo M

Photo N

Photo O

Photo P

Photo Q

Photo R

Photo S

Photo T

Photo U

Photo V

Photo W

Photo X

Photo Y


Like the first UUC Lightweight Flywheel I had, this is a fun mod with wonderful performance benefits. It much more suits my driving style by dropping the revs down quickly between shifts. The engine spins up/down much quicker and allows better response and also easier rev-matching. The Redline fluid did quiet the flywheel chatter a large amount.

The ceramic 4-puck clutch is super-sticky and when it locks down, it is locked tight. No slippage here! It chattered a LOT (as most pucked clutches do) in the very beginning, but after about 50 miles on the way home, it got much better. After 1,000 miles and a little change in driving style, it smoothed up nicely and modulates very close to stock. Pedal feel is a bit stiffer, but higher clamp springs in the pressure plate are the reason. It still chatters a bit here or there, but the clamping force is sooooo worth it. The sprung-hub makes all the difference. A solid disc just can't compare. If you have a 6-speed, and plan on making higher power output, get this clutch!

UPDATE 9-18-2005: I switched back to factory OEM lifetime fluid. The Redline made the shifts sticky and the reduction in chatter noise was not worth it. Also, I had a bubble in my clutch line from the CDV install and so I bleed the clutch slave cylinder. Wow, now the clutch is practially chatter free and the shifts are silky smooth!

  © MarvelPhx